Map

Wednesday, 27 June 2018

June 26, 2018–Stage 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William 24 km—27 deg.C

Woo hoo!  Today we completed the West Highland Way—over 150 kms and only one blister!

We decided to hit the trail extra early at 5:45 am, in order to ensure that we would arrive in Fort William in time to catch the Jacobite Steam Train at 2:30 pm (this meant that we had to forego our nice hot Scottish breakfast, but we did manage to grab cold cereal on the way out, at least).  Initially, the going was slower, due to a steep up-hill grade for the first two kms, but then thankfully the path levelled off.  The early morning light was gorgeous, and the air was fresh and invigorating; the trail belonged exclusively to us and the occasional sheep. At mid-morning, we came to a ruined stone farmhouse, where we stopped to eat some snacks.  Who had lived there and what had their lives been like in such a picturesque but secluded setting?

Further along, we walked through a forest of tree stumps and then came to a cairn of stones with a historical description beside it.  This is "Clach nan Caimbeulach," or "Stone of the Campbells," where the MacDonalds broke off their pursuit of the fleeing Campbells after the Battle of Inverlochy in 1645.  The MacDonalds raised a large stone there to mark the spot, which was later replaced by the cairn we see up until this day.  Tradition has it that MacDonalds and their sympathisers should add a stone as they pass (Laurel did!), whereas Campbells (and their sympathisers) should take one away.  Clearly, there are more MacDonald supporters, as the cairn is quite large!

We continued on as Ben Nevis came into view.  Our map showed more forests, yet alas, they had been cut down, so no shade for us as the sun heated up. After a couple hours of tough hot hiking, we made it to the trees and found a shady spot beside Dun Deardail, a fort built 2,000 years ago—a grassy hilltop today.

Steep forestry roads took us down towards Fort William until we found a path that brought us to the Ben Nevis trailhead and interpretative centre. From there we rushed to the Myrtlebank Guesthouse, showered, and made a beeline to the railway station to catch the Jacobite Steam Train. (aka Hogwarts Express).  As we passed the trail end, we asked another hiker to take our picture and prove that we made it!




No comments:

Post a Comment